28 May

Promenades de Paris (1962)

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Design by Philippe Ledoux

Year: 1962, 1970s, 2014 (as 70cm)

No. 1350

Centred on the heraldic arms of the City of Paris, a charming mise en scène captures images of everyday life in the French capital during the First Empire: promenades, bygone trades and children at play. Soldiers and onlookers throng the kiosks, fashionable cafés and restaurants of the Palais Royal. The Tuileries Gardens attract children bowling hoops, hot chestnut-sellers and miniature carriages drawn by goats. The Champs-Elysées is the promenade of choice for elegant carriages, riders and society ladies taking the route to the country, and the racecource at Longchamp.  At the Invalides – founded by Louis XIV as a home for wounded servicemen, and the last resting-place of the Emperor Napoleon – the vast esplanade offers a backdrop for military parades and peaceable strolls. Paris is a playground, too: skittles, badminton, and games of skipping and cup-and-ball were favourite pastimes for children in the early nineteenth century.

Old copyright:

promenades cp

15 May

Festival / Festival des Amazones (1992)

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Design by Henri d’Origny

Year: 1992, F2013 (as Festival des Amazones)

No. 1797

Hermes.com: Catherine de Medici is widely credited with the invention of a new form of saddle, allowing ladies to ride sidesaddle in comfort, galloping alongside their male companions. Shapes and styles evolved down to the twentieth century, when women riders asserted their right to sit astride their horses, and use traditional saddlery and harnesses. Today, sidesaddle riding is a nostalgic tribute to a vanished world, glimpsed in the equestrian portraits of the nineteenth-century French artist Alfred de Dreux. His elegant amazones are impeccably turned out, in stylish hats and riding-coats, decorously aloft, legs together against their horse’s flank. Inspired by models in the collection of Emile Hermès, and catalogue designs from the prestigious house of Camille on Rue du Château-Landon à Paris, this carré offers a selection of the finest sidesaddle harnessing, beautifully crafted in embroidered leather and wool felt, with piping and inlays describing floral motifs and scrolling patterns in rich colours, complementing the amazone’s sumptuous velvet and taffeta attire.

From 1992 booklet:

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09 May

Jockey (1974)

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Design by Philippe Ledoux

Year: 1974, 1986 (Sp. Ed.), 2013 (as 70cm and twilly)

No. 1592

Riding high on the racehorses of the world, the jockey’s traditional attire has been transformed and simplified since the nineteenth century. Heavy riding coats were replaced by lightweight, brightly coloured ‘silks’, boots replaced buckled slippers, and black riding hats decked with fluttering ribbons gave way to the familiar jockey’s cap. The riders’ comfort has greatly improved, and racecourses everywhere are bright with the vivid colours of each racehorse owner’s distinctive silk. Increasing numbers of owners led to a bewildering array of colour combinations and motifs until the introduction of precise rules, in 1900. Circling the silhouettes of jockeys in the heat of the race, a festive, multicoloured dance of caps fills the space of the square, punctuated with lucky horseshoes at each corner. Because even the greatest talent sometimes needs a little luck.

 

Sp Edition: KEENELAND RACETRACK ANNIVERSARY ON THE 6TH APRIL 1986, marking 50 years

jockey-full

08 May

Caty / Cathy Latham

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Also known as Cathy Latham-Audibert. Her output at Hermes covers over 45 incredible years. Best known for designing Cles (one of the Top 10 best-selling Hermes scarves of all time) and her self-referential designs.

Her first two designs have no signature (Cles and Vendanges). Afterwards, she signed her designs as  “.Caty.” for a decade before switching to signing as “Latham.”

  1. 1965 Les Cles
  2. 1965 /1966 Vendanges
  3. 1967 Les Roues
  4. 1968 Fronteaux et Cocardes
  5. 1970 Egypte
  6. 1970 Ferronnerie
  7. 1970 Aux Champs
  8. 1971 Tahiti
  9. 1971 Feux de Route
  10. 1972 Brandenbourgs (No. 1569)
  11. 1973 Maillons
  12. 1973 Pyramids
  13. 1975 Opera Palais Garnier
  14. 1975 Epaulettes
  15. Harald
  16. 1977 Oiseaux Migrateurs
  17. 1978 Gaucho
  18. 1978 Washington’s Carriage
  19. 1979 Sulfures & Presse-Papiers
  20. 1982 Fleurs de Montagne
  21. 1982 Haute Montagne
  22. 1983 Sequences
  23. 1983 Anemones
  24. 1985 Mexique
  25. 1985 Farandole
  26. 1986 India
  27. 1986 Petite Main
  28. 1988 Flies
  29. 1989 Neige d’Antan
  30. 1990 Correspondance
  31. 1991 Reveries Japonaises
  32. 1992 Memoire d’Hermes
  33. 1992 Haute Montagne
  34. 1993 Emblemes de l’Europe
  35. 1994 Couvees Hermes
  36. 1994 Les Oiseaux du Roy
  37. 1995 Soleil de Soie
  38. 1996 Confort en Automobile
  39. 1997 Cuillers d’Afrique
  40. 1998 Copeaux
  41. 1999 Tibet
  42. 2000 Doigts de Fee
  43. 2001 Neige d’Antan (Detail)
  44. 2002 Tout Cuir
  45. 2002 Tibet II (Detail)
  46. 2002 Sulfures & Presse-Papiers II (Detail)
  47. Les Baudriers
  48. 2005 Porte Bonheur
  49. 2007 Carnets de Bal
  50. 2007 Bolduc au Carre
  51. 2008 Tout en Quilt
  52. 2011 Pois de Soie
  53. Rythmes
  54. Le Salon Dore

catylatham

08 May

Ballet aquatique (2014)

ballet

Design by Pierre Marie

New 70cm design in Sp 2014, twilly in Sp 2014

No. 2812

The sirens of legend were women whose melodious singing bewitched mariners, drawing them down into the depths of the ocean. George Sidney’s Le Bal des sirènes (Bathing beauty, 1944) – a love story between a ravishing girl swimmer and a musician – is a far cheerier tale. The film made its star, Esther Williams, famous. Backed by a troupe of sparkling fellow athletes, their acrobatic formations and  choreographed swimming were admired by generations. Synchronised swimming – a mix of swimming, dance and gymnastics – had made its first appearance a few decades earlier, but its popularity soared thanks to Esther Williams’s musicals. This scarf is an alluring group portrait, presenting the remarkable young women whose grace and dazzling smiles bely their  extraordinary physical strength and prowess.

07 May

La Reale (1953)

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Artist: Hugo Grygkar

Year: 1953, 1970s, 1980s, 1992, 2007, Sp 2014

No. 1191

Subject: View of ship’s hull from the deck of Louis XIV’s ship La Reale (The Royal)

Note: often referred to by the letters on the carre “Vue de Carrosse”

Hermes.com: Among the major works on show at the Musée Nationale de la Marine, in Paris, is this sumptuous, carved transom stern dating from the 17th century. The ship in question is the Réale, from the royal fleet of Louis XIV. This remarkable warship, noted for its elegant lines and rich ornamental carvings, was sailed by an exceptionally large crew. Reserved for the admiral of the fleet, she sailed until the beginning of the 18th century. Her carvings – the source of Hugo Grygkar’s inspiration – featured sea gods blowing into conch shells (near the water line), figures of  Fame blowing their trumpets to the  glory of the King, and other reliefs. They are generally thought to be the work of Pierre  Puget, a renowned French artist from the city of Marseille, who spent several years in Florence, and later Rome, learning and perfecting the art of sculpture. In the 19th century, his forceful style earned him the title ‘the French Michelangelo’.

References: Diane Keaton wearing Colorway #37 in Mad Money (2007)

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